Anyone have 20’s with 37’s on stock?

I’m running the 37x12.50x17 NRGs which measure at 36.7 inches on a 0 offset 8.5 inch wide wheel, and it’s really not driveable (functional) with stock suspension. I get pretty bad rubbing up front both in back and front of the wheel well on turns both forward and reverse. I’ve hit a few driveway entrances turning off of roads at about 15-20 mph and I feel like the front end is going to be ripped off. It’s really not that bad, but really annoying. I trimmed the black plastic piece between the fender flare and wheel well liner a bit, but still not enough. Just some thoughts. Carli level kit will be installed next week…
 
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I’m running the 37x12.50x17 NRGs which measure at 36.7 inches on a 0 offset 8.5 inch wide wheel, and it’s really not driveable (functional) with stock suspension. I get pretty bad rubbing up front both in back and front of the wheel well on turns both forward and reverse. I’ve hit a few driveway entrances turning off of roads at about 15-20 mph and I feel like the front end is going to be ripped off. It’s really not that bad, but really annoying. I trimmed the black plastic piece between the fender flare and wheel well liner a bit, but still not enough. Just some thoughts. Carli level kit will be installed next week…
I trimmed the same piece, but with the stock suspension I only had slight rub in reverse on the driver side with the wheel turned left. Put a 1” spacer from PMF and everything is solved. I am on 37x12.5x18 Falken Wildpeaks, rims are 18x9 +12

it is crazy how each 37” tire measures a bit different and depending on the tread aggressiveness may or may not rub…but even though it was so slight, when it rubbed it sounded like it was gonna rip the fender flare off!!

But to the original question of 20’s, i think it really depends more on the tire measurments and sidewall aggressiveness than the rim size that could be the difference between rubbing and not rubbing. I have seen more posts with stock wheels (I think they are +40??) and 37s that didn’t rub at all on stock suspension…
 
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I trimmed the same piece, but with the stock suspension I only had slight rub in reverse on the driver side with the wheel turned left. Put a 1” spacer from PMF and everything is solved. I am on 37x12.5x18 Falken Wildpeaks, rims are 18x9 +12

it is crazy how each 37” tire measures a bit different and depending on the tread aggressiveness may or may not rub…but even though it was so slight, when it rubbed it sounded like it was gonna rip the fender flare off!!

But to the original question of 20’s, i think it really depends more on the tire measurments and sidewall aggressiveness than the rim size that could be the difference between rubbing and not rubbing. I have seen more posts with stock wheels (I think they are +40??) and 37s that didn’t rub at all on stock suspension…
I think your setup is less prone to rubbing because it's a +12 vs blueonblack's +0 offset. Is the PMF the bumper spacer?
 
I think your setup is less prone to rubbing because it's a +12 vs blueonblack's +0 offset. Is the PMF the bumper spacer?
Agreed, I believe +18 would have been even better. I have the bottom mount coil spacer.
 
I’m running the 37x12.50x17 NRGs which measure at 36.7 inches on a 0 offset 8.5 inch wide wheel, and it’s really not driveable (functional) with stock suspension. I get pretty bad rubbing up front both in back and front of the wheel well on turns both forward and reverse. I’ve hit a few driveway entrances turning off of roads at about 15-20 mph and I feel like the front end is going to be ripped off. It’s really not that bad, but really annoying. I trimmed the black plastic piece between the fender flare and wheel well liner a bit, but still not enough. Just some thoughts. Carli level kit will be installed next week…
You think you could get away with more trimming to clear with no rubbing? Like more fender liner or pintch weld trimming etc. I know you don't plan to just curious your thoughts. I want 37's but want to fit in my garage also and 37's with a level will prolly be a no go for me.
 
You think you could get away with more trimming to clear with no rubbing? Like more fender liner or pintch weld trimming etc. I know you don't plan to just curious your thoughts. I want 37's but want to fit in my garage also and 37's with a level will prolly be a no go for me.
Time for a new garage door! We love to help people spend more money... ;)
 
Time for a new garage door! We love to help people spend more money... ;)
My wife is not a fan of this website lol. I've actually already had people come take a look and see what options I have to increase clearance a little bit without going crazy.
 
You think you could get away with more trimming to clear with no rubbing? Like more fender liner or pintch weld trimming etc. I know you don't plan to just curious your thoughts. I want 37's but want to fit in my garage also and 37's with a level will prolly be a no go for me.
Great question! I certainly think if I did the full trim as outlined in the CJC video I would not have an issue in the rear of each well. I could then trim about an inch or an inch and a half off the bottom of the wheel well liner up front and be clear for most all normal driving. The CJC trim video gives me heart palpitations thinking about it, but looks like the way to go.
 
Great question! I certainly think if I did the full trim as outlined in the CJC video I would not have an issue in the rear of each well. I could then trim about an inch or an inch and a half off the bottom of the wheel well liner up front and be clear for most all normal driving. The CJC trim video gives me heart palpitations thinking about it, but looks like the way to go.
Thx!
 
Guess Ill just need a bigger lift…
Go big or go home!

You also might want to consider a smaller diameter wheel for small bump compliance on and off the road. 37s on 18s will ride better than stock and 17s are the best! (y)
 

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