'21 F350 TREMOR FRONT END SMOOTH OUT

SKIPGOOD

Tremor Buff
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Military
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Current Ride
2021 F350 LAREDO TREMOR 7.3
Current Ride #2
2021 F350 Tremor customizing 7.5L
Does a anyone want to chime in...

Im going to smooth this ride one way or a other....

I want bigger tires on it as well
READ ON........

I need to calm down this ride, lol...
'21 F350 Tremor... 35s (wý 80# air)
want to fit s7s on it from time to time....
38s would be nice...
Some say let out 10# of air....
really.... lol...
it works on my Big Dog Chopper...

i found good and seemingly professional enough from the gearheads at CJCOFFROADS.COM...

These guys put products together.... and make products that are try'd, true and tested like their radius arm for the F350 Tremor....

Ford company cannot offer a product like this....

It takes a true 4X4 geared that loves what they do to make stuff like they do....

I don't care so much about the ride as much as a lady or older people would... So since I love what I do ill go the extra mile/$$ to get things where I want them....
Maybe...lol... Money is getting worthless....

Carli suspension E-Venture system.
To start these products are very expensive....
For me anyways....
I want to get the shocks... A few things come with it as well...
It's supposed to make it ride like an F150 when you're on rough terrain.

Soo...
Anyone have anything to say that may help me...
Looking for anyone whose done what I want to do.....

Suggestions..... ??

Thx Gentlemen..... Skip
 
Running 35s at 80psi is bonkers.

Drop down to 58-60 and drive it for a week and report back. If you're still unsatisfied consider a different suspension. Still unsatisfied after that, trade it in for a minivan.

Also I don't know how long you've had your truck or how many miles are on it but the Duratracs do take some time to break in. Once they do, they'll feel better.

__

Obviously increasing tire sidewall by going from 35s to 37s will better the ride. It's sort of a game of cat and mouse before you can truly get the ride where you want it to be but many have achieved a happy balance that they're satisfied with, including people who have kept their truck bone stock and played around with tire pressures. It's your money but the Carli E-Venture is $12K. I'd suggest playing with pressures before you dive in as well as research all of the Carli systems before deciding on what fits your needs. A lot of people, CJC included, regard the Pintop system as the cream of the crop. However, it's important to realize that the Pintop system was created for people who are pushing their trucks at 60-70mph in off-road terrain (i.e the ride sucks on pavement). A lot of people have been happy with their compromise by doing the commuter package.
 
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I dropped down to 55 and it is a huge difference in ride, not sure I care for the Goodyear
 
Shoot. I'm down to 40psi front and rear and it's made a world of difference in ride. Try decreasing the pressure before you start changing all these suspension parts out
 
I dropped pressure on the Duratracs to 60psi and added sulastic shackles for $450 to the rear and I drive empty with one thumb around the bottom of the wheel. Trailering is a breeze as well. Recently switched wheels out to Ford OEM 20 inch rims and Ridge Grappler 35x12.5s (summer tires) and still the same ride quality and handling. I actually couldn't be more pleased with the Tremor ride and handling the way it is. You can spend loads of money if you want but unless you know exactly what you are after I would just work with the truck the way it is for a while.
 
Shoot. I'm down to 40psi front and rear and it's made a world of difference in ride. Try decreasing the pressure before you start changing all these suspension parts out
Did you use Forscan to change factory tire pressure setting to keep from having low tire pressure warning light? If you did what was the setting you changed? Hexadecimal?
 
Since your thread title is "front end" verify your placard inside the door. I thought the spec on a 21 350 was 60 or 70psi not 80psi? That being said, unloaded I am running 50psi all around and it does make a huge difference imo on a stock suspension. That is an easy first step to try before spending money...
 
Did you use Forscan to change factory tire pressure setting to keep from having low tire pressure warning light? If you did what was the setting you changed? Hexadecimal?
Yea I used Forscan to change the psi settings with the plain English side instead of hexadecimal.
 
Since your thread title is "front end" verify your placard inside the door. I thought the spec on a 21 350 was 60 or 70psi not 80psi? That being said, unloaded I am running 50psi all around and it does make a huge difference imo on a stock suspension. That is an easy first step to try before spending money...
My '21 came with the higher pressures on the door placard.
 
No mine says 60F/80R. Did the '20s have 80 for both?
I doubt it but that is what I was trying to determine. :p

I gathered from the OP that they are running 80psi all around. To me that is "step one" before spending money... Lower the pressure.
 
I doubt it but that is what I was trying to determine. :p

I gathered from the OP that they are running 80psi all around. To me that is "step one" before spending money... Lower the pressure.
If he's running 80 up front it probably rides like the Flintstone mobile. 😬
 
To quote the OP; "Some say let out 10# of air....really.... lol..." Lots of good advice here, but I doubt OP will be taking it. Oh well...
 
Lots of threads on here too about e-venture and other suspension upgrades many have done.

@SKIPGOOD - if you search on here you’ll find a lot of really good info about ideas guys have done to improve the ride quality - PSI, tires, suspensions, air bags, etc. Definitely lots of ideas and options to improve it.

Good luck!
 
To quote the OP; "Some say let out 10# of air....really.... lol..." Lots of good advice here, but I doubt OP will be taking it. Oh well...
Yep, seems to have left the conversation...........................
 
Which Forscan tool did you purchase to do this? Thank you.
I have both wired USB plug version and the Bluetooth version of this reader. These are the brand recommended by the ForScan folks. I've had good success with both, although some say it's better to use the wired version to avoid the possibility of radio interference during program changes. There are many foreign made knock offs that are a little sketchy.

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_8?crid=39KKM40TICCUT&keywords=OBD2&qid=1669297382&sprefix=obd2,aps,84&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

 
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I have both wired USB plug version and the Bluetooth version of this reader. These are the brand recommended by the ForScan folks. I've had good success with both, alth some say it's better to use the wired version to avoid the possibility of radio interference during program changes. There are many foreign made knock offs that are a little sketchy.

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_8?crid=39KKM40TICCUT&keywords=OBD2&qid=1669297382&sprefix=obd2,aps,84&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

Second this. I have both and use the wired for Forscan, Bluetooth if I just need to pull codes or other functions not requiring a laptop.

The reason to go wired with Forscan is the risk of a dropped Bluetooth connection during module writing which can and has happened to people.
 

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