1,000 Mile Oil Change

[TimmyTheKid17]

Hi All,

I know most of you change the oil at the 1,000 mile break-in period. Do you also change the rear differential as well? What about the front diff?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[Dutch061]

I don't plan on changing the oil at 1K miles, never have on a new vehicle and no reason to start now. In fact, it is of my opinion that removing the original oil too soon can result in other issues such as oil consumption.

So, you already know my thoughts on axle lubricants, especially the front axle because unless you are driving around with the hubs manually locked nothing inside is rotating anyway.

 

[Smindustries]

I don't plan on changing the oil at 1K miles, never have on a new vehicle and no reason to start now. In fact, it is of my opinion that removing the original oil too soon can result in other issues such as oil consumption.

That's an interesting take. I can think of at least one manufacturer that requires a 1,200-mile break-in service on some of their performance vehicles.

Not that we're talking about a performance engine in the instance of the Tremor, but if Ford's engine assembly areas has as much trash floating around as their paint booths do, changing the oil might not be a bad idea.

 

[RedZilla]

You can't hurt anything by changing the initial oil out early, unless you just put the wrong oil in or overfill or something like that. I doubt changing at 1000, 2000, 3 or 4 will matter but many folks feel it's a good idea to have fresh oil in the engine during the early miles, partly because manufactures used to recommend the practice.

Oil technology has improved greatly over the years and today's oils are formulated to last longer, but that doesn't address the issue of wear particles and contamination from manufacturing processes that are present in the first few thousand miles of operation. Regarding the differentials there's very few "wear parts" in these assemblies and related to the engine the diffs run much slower and cooler. More important than changing out the oil early is the practice of break in. The gears in the drive line need a break in just like the engine, so it's important to allow several hundred miles or more for break in before hauling max loads up mountains. And using 4 wheel drive on and off is part of that process as well.

Regarding lube changes, the most important thing is to make sure it's done right. Sounds simple but if done wrong it's the fastest way to damage a new engine or drivetrain. I hate to bash on hard working people because there are good people in every line of work, but the average oil change person receive nearly zero training on a process that can spell disaster if every detail isn't done right. The oil change industry is focused on speed and cost control. Point is changing oil out whenever you do it has to be right or you are taking a bigger risk than not changing often enough.

Do what makes you feel good, but by goodness make sure it's done right, and feel good that you are taking care of your ride. ?

 

[Dutch061]

You are correct, we are not talking about a 100K+ performance engine. I understand your thoughts, but removal of the "trash" removes the micro abrasives that end up in the oil from the initial driving. The micro abrasives assist in polishing the parts while in operation so that they fit together with closer tolerance. At least this is my belief, retired ASE Master Technician, Chevrolet Master Technician, GMC Master Technician.

I have owned several new cars, trucks, and motorcycles over the years and I only had 1 that was an oil burner. That was a 1993 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic, the cure for it was the "going to the Sun Highway in MT" pulling a trailer up the grade and getting it very hot. So either what I have done with all of these vehicles I have owned was an acceptable way to break them in or if I have just been lucky, I will leave that open for interpretation.

 

[stufarmer]

We can beat Oil preferences, and drain intervals to death. Ford has stated, they don't use a "break-in oil". If you're reading this you probably have an interest in the Oil you use in your Vehicles. I changed mine at just over a 1000 miles also. It now has the Oil I want in it. From a bottle, not bulk. I have confidence in my choice of Oil, and plan to use for as long as I own the truck.

 

[SVT4X4]

There is only one way to know for sure what is happening inside the engine, whether new or high mileage, and that is oil analysis. I did my first oil change on 7.3 at 4500 miles and Silicon was slightly elevated which is what I would expect for the first oil change. For most people rebuilding an engine themselves, or even if you have a shop do it, I would change the oil fairly quickly, 100 to 250 miles. But from what I have seen over the years on factory built engines, they are pretty darn clean and the break in wear metals is exceptionally low. Not like it was 30 years ago for sure.

My only recommendation is if you are going to change your oil at 1,000 miles or even 3,000 miles use a good quality equivalent to factory motor oil and don't use any special additives in these newer engines. There are some good ones out there, but the most important thing is for the rings to seat otherwise you will be burning oil for the rest of the engine life.

 

[TimmyTheKid17]

You can't hurt anything by changing the initial oil out early, unless you just put the wrong oil in or overfill or something like that. I doubt changing at 1000, 2000, 3 or 4 will matter but many folks feel it's a good idea to have fresh oil in the engine during the early miles, partly because manufactures used to recommend the practice.

Oil technology has improved greatly over the years and today's oils are formulated to last longer, but that doesn't address the issue of wear particles and contamination from manufacturing processes that are present in the first few thousand miles of operation. Regarding the differentials there's very few "wear parts" in these assemblies and related to the engine the diffs run much slower and cooler. More important than changing out the oil early is the practice of break in. The gears in the drive line need a break in just like the engine, so it's important to allow several hundred miles or more for break in before hauling max loads up mountains. And using 4 wheel drive on and off is part of that process as well.

Regarding lube changes, the most important thing is to make sure it's done right. Sounds simple but if done wrong it's the fastest way to damage a new engine or drivetrain. I hate to bash on hard working people because there are good people in every line of work, but the average oil change person receive nearly zero training on a process that can spell disaster if every detail isn't done right. The oil change industry is focused on speed and cost control. Point is changing oil out whenever you do it has to be right or you are taking a bigger risk than not changing often enough.

Do what makes you feel good, but by goodness make sure it's done right, and feel good that you are taking care of your ride. ?

Hi Red - thank you for the insightful reply. This would be my first vehicle I change my oil myself. I want to get a bit more hands on with my vehicles going forward. To your point the oil change process seems simple. That said, are there any specific steps in the process that get overlooked that I should pay attention to? Or is it mostly just ensuring I am using oil and a filter to Fords recommended specs?

 

[RedZilla]

Hi Red - thank you for the insightful reply. This would be my first vehicle I change my oil myself. I want to get a bit more hands on with my vehicles going forward. To your point the oil change process seems simple. That said, are there any specific steps in the process that get overlooked that I should pay attention to? Or is it mostly just ensuring I am using oil and a filter to Fords recommended specs?

Here's some Keys:
1.Use Ford spec oil, and as mentioned above DON'T be tempted to "improve" on it with additives. Most additives are useless if not snake oil and can cause harm, especially for a new engine.
2. Best to stick with OEM filter. There are many good ones on the market but you will never go wrong with OEM. A $90 filter will not do anything special that OEM won't do.
3. Get all your stuff together, have plenty of rags, you will get oil everywhere when you pull the filter. A large drain pan makes things much cleaner. I keep a five gallon bucket around just to use for oil transport to the parts store for recycle.
4. You will need a funnel that fits your truck depending on your engine for refill. The fill ports on these engines are small and down in there so a good size funnel with proper reach is a must.
5. Warm it up for a 5-10 minute drive and then change immediately. Let it drain thoroughly and on a level surface.
6. Pull the oil filter next and be ready to catch spillage. I large rag or possibly zip lock around the filter may help here. The oil will be fairly hot.
7. Make sure the old rubber seal comes off with the filter. Doubling up the oil filter gasket will spell disaster once you start driving the truck.
8. Wet the new filter gasket with a little oil before installing. Spin filter on until the gasket touches and then tighten 3/4 turn.
9. Reinstall the drain plug and don't cross thread or over tighten. This is one step the fast change folks get wrong often and it can be disastrous.
10. Fill engine with new oil to specs. The 7.3 requires 8 quarts. Don't over fill. You can always add more oil if it's not quite to the full mark. Button everything up and run the engine for a couple minutes, checking dash for good oil pressure and under truck for any leaks.
11. Shut down and lest rest five minutes and recheck oil level and top off if needed.

That's pretty much it, but each step is important. Again get all your supplies up front. You don't want to have to make a trip to the parts store in the middle of the job.

Edit: I got this funnel for this truck (7.3 engine). It reaches the fill port nicely and is big for keeping things clean. You may want to trim the tip of the spout an inch or so to fit the fill port a little better. It's sturdy and LARGE. ?

Amazon.com: Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Automotive

Buy Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Funnels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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[TimmyTheKid17]

Here's some Keys:
1.Use Ford spec oil, and as mentioned above DON'T be tempted to "improve" on it with additives. Most additives are useless if not snake oil and can cause harm, especially for a new engine.
2. Best to stick with OEM filter. There are many good ones on the market but you will never go wrong with OEM. A $90 filter will not do anything special that OEM won't do.
3. Get all your stuff together, have plenty of rags, you will get oil everywhere when you pull the filter. A large drain pan makes things much cleaner. I keep a five gallon bucket around just to use for oil transport to the parts store for recycle.
4. You will need a funnel that fits your truck depending on your engine for refill. The fill ports on these engines are small and down in there so a good size funnel with proper reach is a must.
5. Warm it up for a 5-10 minute drive and then change immediately. Let it drain thoroughly and on a level surface.
6. Pull the oil filter next and be ready to catch spillage. I large rag or possibly zip lock around the filter may help here. The oil will be fairly hot.
7. Make sure the old rubber seal comes off with the filter. Doubling up the oil filter gasket will spell disaster once you start driving the truck.
8. Wet the new filter gasket with a little oil before installing. Spin filter on until the gasket touches and then tighten 3/4 turn.
9. Reinstall the drain plug and don't cross thread or over tighten. This in one step the fast change folks get wrong often and it can be disastrous.
10. Fill engine with new oil to specs. The 7.3 requires 8 quarts. Don't over fill. You can always add more oil if it's not quite to the full mark. Button everything up and run the engine for a couple minutes, checking dash for good oil pressure and under truck for any leaks.
11. Shut down and lest rest five minutes and recheck oil level and top off if needed.

That's pretty much it, but each step is important. Again get all your supplies up front. You don't want to have to make a trip to the parts store in the middle of the job.

Edit: I got this funnel for this truck (7.3 engine). It reaches the fill port nicely and is big for keeping things clean. You may want to trim the tip of the spout an inch or so to fit the fill port a little better. It's sturdy and LARGE. ?

Amazon.com: Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Automotive

Buy Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Funnels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

View attachment 27057

A step by step guide, fantastic! Really do appreciate this Red. Excited to start to get a bit more hands on with my rig!

To circle back on the differential lube changes...are you essentially agreeing with Dutch that changing these is not necessary this early on? While I want to try and do what is "best" for the new beast, I don't want to do anything just for the sake of doing it.

 

[RedZilla]

A step by step guide, fantastic! Really do appreciate this Red. Excited to start to get a bit more hands on with my rig!

To circle back on the differential lube changes...are you essentially agreeing with Dutch that changing these is not necessary this early on? While I want to try and do what is "best" for the new beast, I don't want to do anything just for the sake of doing it.

Break in is more important than changing the lube that early. Again changing early isn't going to hurt anything but probably no gain. To be honest I've always just stuck with the factory schedule and never had a problem with a diff. or transfer case. Most of us don't push these trucks any where near their design limitations. If you just stick to the factory schedule and address any leaks early you will get 200K miles out of it easy.

 

[Accuracy International]

@RedZilla ,

Ford recommends pre filling your oil filter prior to installation as well, your list is otherwise spot on.

Edit: Sorry just realized this is the 7.3L forum section, I have no business here... Not sure what Ford recommends on those oil filters for your application.

 

[BlueKilla]

Here's some Keys:
1.Use Ford spec oil, and as mentioned above DON'T be tempted to "improve" on it with additives. Most additives are useless if not snake oil and can cause harm, especially for a new engine.
2. Best to stick with OEM filter. There are many good ones on the market but you will never go wrong with OEM. A $90 filter will not do anything special that OEM won't do.
3. Get all your stuff together, have plenty of rags, you will get oil everywhere when you pull the filter. A large drain pan makes things much cleaner. I keep a five gallon bucket around just to use for oil transport to the parts store for recycle.
4. You will need a funnel that fits your truck depending on your engine for refill. The fill ports on these engines are small and down in there so a good size funnel with proper reach is a must.
5. Warm it up for a 5-10 minute drive and then change immediately. Let it drain thoroughly and on a level surface.
6. Pull the oil filter next and be ready to catch spillage. I large rag or possibly zip lock around the filter may help here. The oil will be fairly hot.
7. Make sure the old rubber seal comes off with the filter. Doubling up the oil filter gasket will spell disaster once you start driving the truck.
8. Wet the new filter gasket with a little oil before installing. Spin filter on until the gasket touches and then tighten 3/4 turn.
9. Reinstall the drain plug and don't cross thread or over tighten. This in one step the fast change folks get wrong often and it can be disastrous.
10. Fill engine with new oil to specs. The 7.3 requires 8 quarts. Don't over fill. You can always add more oil if it's not quite to the full mark. Button everything up and run the engine for a couple minutes, checking dash for good oil pressure and under truck for any leaks.
11. Shut down and lest rest five minutes and recheck oil level and top off if needed.

That's pretty much it, but each step is important. Again get all your supplies up front. You don't want to have to make a trip to the parts store in the middle of the job.

Edit: I got this funnel for this truck (7.3 engine). It reaches the fill port nicely and is big for keeping things clean. You may want to trim the tip of the spout an inch or so to fit the fill port a little better. It's sturdy and LARGE. ?

Amazon.com: Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Automotive

Buy Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Funnels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

View attachment 27057

If Amazon is OOS, I ordered from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies in WI for $32 shipped. Third party sellers on Amazon are charging a fortune for this thing.

 

[RedZilla]

If Amazon is OOS, I ordered from Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies in WI for $32 shipped. Third party sellers on Amazon are charging a fortune for this thing.

I just like it because is sits stable and very large. Sits at a slight angle but not an issue. Agree for what it is the prices are stupid but I figure pay once and have it forever.

 

[BlueKilla]

I just like it because is sits stable and very large. Sits at a slight angle but not an issue. Agree for what it is the prices are stupid but I figure pay once and have it forever.

Took your advice and ordered one for myself from Pegasus. I hate spending too much time trying to fill the crankcase with a subpar funnel or by eyeballing it. Can never have too many funnels!

 

[RedZilla]

@RedZilla ,

Ford recommends pre filling your oil filter prior to installation as well, your list is otherwise spot on.

Edit: Sorry just realized this is the 7.3L forum section, I have no business here... Not sure what Ford recommends on those oil filters for your application.

I thought about adding that line but it's not really required. Just have to top off about half a quart.
I figured I was opening myself up to criticism for writing a tutorial but the brother asked so I stepped out. ?

 

[RedZilla]

Took your advice and ordered one for myself from Pegasus. I hate spending too much time trying to fill the crankcase with a subpar funnel or by eyeballing it. Can never have too many funnels!

I think I have between 8 and 12. I hate the flex spout type cause they tend to fall over right when you get a lot of oil in them. This thing is nice and it'll hold the entire jug.

 

[BlueKilla]

I think I have between 8 and 12. I hate the flex spout type cause they tend to fall over right when you get a lot of oil in them. This thing is nice and it'll hold the entire jug.

Sounds like we need a post your funnel collection thread ? I think I'm right up there with you

 

[TimmyTheKid17]

I thought about adding that line but it's not really required. Just have to top off about half a quart.
I figured I was opening myself up to criticism for writing a tutorial but the brother asked so I stepped out. ?

And I am grateful!

 

[Rooster]

Here's some Keys:
1.Use Ford spec oil, and as mentioned above DON'T be tempted to "improve" on it with additives. Most additives are useless if not snake oil and can cause harm, especially for a new engine.
2. Best to stick with OEM filter. There are many good ones on the market but you will never go wrong with OEM. A $90 filter will not do anything special that OEM won't do.
3. Get all your stuff together, have plenty of rags, you will get oil everywhere when you pull the filter. A large drain pan makes things much cleaner. I keep a five gallon bucket around just to use for oil transport to the parts store for recycle.
4. You will need a funnel that fits your truck depending on your engine for refill. The fill ports on these engines are small and down in there so a good size funnel with proper reach is a must.
5. Warm it up for a 5-10 minute drive and then change immediately. Let it drain thoroughly and on a level surface.
6. Pull the oil filter next and be ready to catch spillage. I large rag or possibly zip lock around the filter may help here. The oil will be fairly hot.
7. Make sure the old rubber seal comes off with the filter. Doubling up the oil filter gasket will spell disaster once you start driving the truck.
8. Wet the new filter gasket with a little oil before installing. Spin filter on until the gasket touches and then tighten 3/4 turn.
9. Reinstall the drain plug and don't cross thread or over tighten. This in one step the fast change folks get wrong often and it can be disastrous.
10. Fill engine with new oil to specs. The 7.3 requires 8 quarts. Don't over fill. You can always add more oil if it's not quite to the full mark. Button everything up and run the engine for a couple minutes, checking dash for good oil pressure and under truck for any leaks.
11. Shut down and lest rest five minutes and recheck oil level and top off if needed.

That's pretty much it, but each step is important. Again get all your supplies up front. You don't want to have to make a trip to the parts store in the middle of the job.

Edit: I got this funnel for this truck (7.3 engine). It reaches the fill port nicely and is big for keeping things clean. You may want to trim the tip of the spout an inch or so to fit the fill port a little better. It's sturdy and LARGE. ?

Amazon.com: Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Automotive

Buy Scribner Plastics 6115R Red 45 Degree 14" D Funnel: Funnels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

View attachment 27057

How you liking that funnel? Looking for the perfect one now. Spilled a half a quart of oil last overflowing the big one that was at the wrong angle and missing the tiny one with 3 foot pour out of the 5 quart jug